The primary Christian pilgrimage places of Northern Peru are at the towns of Ayabaca, Otuzco, and Motupe. Ayabaca has a much venerated image of Christ; Otuzco is the site of a Marian apparition; and Motupe has the miraculous cross of Chalpon in a small cave far up a remote valley. Each of these sites reveal significant pagan influences and few non-Peruvians venture into these remote mountain regions.
Otuzco is a small town in the north of Peru, situated at 8600 feet above sea level, which has one of the most important pilgrimage festivals in the country. This festival, the Fiesta de la Virgen de la Puerta, takes place each year on December 15. At that time the normally quiet town hosts many thousands of pilgrims who travel to the shrine from all over Peru and Ecuador. When I visited Otuzco, I found a sleepy town, months away from a pilgrimage fair. Such quiet times at sacred sites have a splendid feeling to them too, when only local folk are around. Boisterous children played makeshift soccer in front of the church, young lovers kissed in the gardens, and old men fell asleep while praying in the sanctuary. There is an odd sort of museum next door to the church. A few dozen large glass cases display many hundreds of skillfully crafted gowns. These gowns make up the large wardrobe used to dress the five foot tall statue of Mary. The gowns have been donated by pilgrims as a visible expression of prayers or thanks for prayers that have been answered. In other glass cases surrounding the ornate gowns are thousands of pieces of jewelry donated by the pilgrims for the further adornment of the miracle-causing statue. The sanctuary of Otuzco is known to be a healing place, its power being especially beneficial for young children.
The small town of Motupe, located 49 miles (79 kilometers) north of Chiclayo in the Lambayeque region is famous for the festival of the Cruz de Chalpon (Cross of Chalpon). All year long pilgrims from throughout northern Peru walk to the cave shrine of the Cross of Chalpon, located in the mountains above the town of Motupe. Each year, on August 5, there is a grand celebration in which devotees carry a large cross from the sacred cave down to the village of Motupe. This pilgrimage procession offers a wonderful opportunity to view the mix of Indian and Christian customs incorporated in a local religious ceremony. The tradition of the Cross of Chalpon began in 1850 when a hermit priest, Padre Juan, lived in an isolated area of the mountains near Motupe. During his time in the mountains, Padre Juan lived in different caves and carved large wooden crosses, which he used in his worship. He would also come to the town of Motupe on occasion and was much respected by the local peasants. Later in his life Padre Juan moved away, became ill, and finally passed away in Lima. His corpse, according to legend, appeared in different places and so the religious authorities sent his remains to Rome, where he was eventually canonized.
For some years the location of the cave where Padre Juan had lived and worshipped
was lost. Then in 1868 a cataclysm was predicted and the villagers of Motupe
began to search for the cave and cross of Padre Juan in hopes of obtaining
protection. After some days of searching, the sacred cave and its cross was
found on Mt. Chalpon by Jose Mercedes Anteparra on August 5. The cross was
carried to the village of Motupe where the local peasants received it with
great joy. Miracles began to occur when pilgrims came to the cross and over
many years more and more pilgrims began to visit Motupe and its cave shrine.
Each year now, on August 5, the town of Motupe is the scene of a great pilgrimage
fair. A large percentage of the thousands of pilgrims attending the festival
walk barefoot to the shrine from all parts of Peru. During this festival,
which honors the town of Motupe, there are many celebrations, fireworks displays,
and exhibitions of holy icons. Food stands are also set up around the main
plaza and along the pathway leading to the cave shrine. Open throughout the
day, these stalls offer a wide selection of regional dishes, water and beer,
as well as many items of religious nature such as figurines, candles and
other mementos.
